I swore that I wouldn't be one those guys with the 10lb AR15 with Cuisinart attachments (food processor, popcorn maker, etc) but somehow my AR feels almost as heavy as my Garand.
Now, my wife has been complaining that her rifle (a lightweight aka pencil barrel AR15) needs an optic. For that classic A1 look hers is a traditional carry handle with A1 1/2 rear sight (it has a knob for windage). She is very jealous of my EOTech 556. I can't blame her, the reticle (A65) is awesome!
So, I began to price out a new stripped upper, EOTech XPS, Magpul flip rear sight and thought...hmm...Wouldn't it be easier to swap barrels on my tank of an AR15, give her the new lightweight with the EOTech and buy myself a new scope for my 6.8? (yes, a completely different AR15). Maybe not easier but less expensive, especially considering I was planning on getting a scope any way and with the $ saved (that's new math) I can get a Magpul ACS stock and a padded sling. Hey, the padded sling is for her, not me.
People always ask me what is involved with swapping an AR15 barrel and what is needed. I thought I would share since it is fresh on my mind.
1. Upper block/armorer's tool: Basically a buffer goes inside your upper to keep it from deforming and an outside clam shell goes around the outside to keep it from being squished. I got mine locally from Olympic Arms, but Brownells has them as well as any AR parts company/mfg.
2. vice: I already have one bolted to my work bench
3. barrel nut wrench (AR15 specific). preferrably one that can attach to a wrench/breaker bar because sometimes it is a PITA to remove the nut. I got mine from Brownells.
4. set up punches and ball peen hammer (or any hammer)
5. handguard removal tool (optional-but sometimes they are a PITA to remove). Mine is from Brownells but it sucks. After a few uses the rubber/plastic has cracked.
6. antiseize: I got mine from an auto parts store
MAKE SURE IT IS UNLOADED!!
Field strip the rifle (including remove the bolt carrier group)
Remove handguards
Tap out the gas tube pin (be careful it's short!)
Pull the gas tube towards the front site, it will twist out
Put the upper in your Armorer's block (with insert)
Put it in your vice
Use your barrel wrench to unscrew the barrel nut (this can be hard)
Pull barrel off
Install is the reverse; I would go into more detail but there are countless internet write ups that are far more detailed than I could do and with pics (I am lazy this Sunday).
I warn you though, lining up the barrel nut through the delta ring assembly to the bolt key is ... interesting. One barrel popped off no problem, while the other...well, took all of my weight to get it to budge. How tight they are really varies.
Now here is something critical, unless it is a brand new bolt or you want to check head space-- KEEP THE BOLT TOGETHER WITH THE BARREL IT CAME FROM!!!
Almost forgot--I have had an A2 rear site aperture for a long time to replace the A1's. Even the large peep of the A1 is simply too small for my tastes. I did that at the same time. I also swapped the front site posts. The pencil barrel (designed for an A2) needs a slightly higher post. I got mine from Bushmaster.
So, the result? A much lighter rifle even with all my kitchen accessories (flashlight, EOTech, EMOD stock with batteries, etc) and another heavy barrel carbine A1 1/2 that is now more manageable. And a happy wife.....I see a scope for my 6.8 in the near future.
Happy Memorial Day!
