I swore that I wouldn't be one those guys with the 10lb AR15 with Cuisinart attachments (food processor, popcorn maker, etc) but somehow my AR feels almost as heavy as my Garand.

Now, my wife has been complaining that her rifle (a lightweight aka pencil barrel AR15) needs an optic. For that classic A1 look hers is a traditional carry handle with A1 1/2 rear sight (it has a knob for windage). She is very jealous of my EOTech 556. I can't blame her, the reticle (A65) is awesome!

So, I began to price out a new stripped upper, EOTech XPS, Magpul flip rear sight and thought...hmm...Wouldn't it be easier to swap barrels on my tank of an AR15, give her the new lightweight with the EOTech and buy myself a new scope for my 6.8? (yes, a completely different AR15). Maybe not easier but less expensive, especially considering I was planning on getting a scope any way and with the $ saved (that's new math) I can get a Magpul ACS stock and a padded sling. Hey, the padded sling is for her, not me.

People always ask me what is involved with swapping an AR15 barrel and what is needed. I thought I would share since it is fresh on my mind.

1. Upper block/armorer's tool: Basically a buffer goes inside your upper to keep it from deforming and an outside clam shell goes around the outside to keep it from being squished. I got mine locally from Olympic Arms, but Brownells has them as well as any AR parts company/mfg.
2. vice: I already have one bolted to my work bench
3. barrel nut wrench (AR15 specific). preferrably one that can attach to a wrench/breaker bar because sometimes it is a PITA to remove the nut. I got mine from Brownells.
4. set up punches and ball peen hammer (or any hammer)
5. handguard removal tool (optional-but sometimes they are a PITA to remove). Mine is from Brownells but it sucks. After a few uses the rubber/plastic has cracked.
6. antiseize: I got mine from an auto parts store

MAKE SURE IT IS UNLOADED!!
Field strip the rifle (including remove the bolt carrier group)
Remove handguards
Tap out the gas tube pin (be careful it's short!)
Pull the gas tube towards the front site, it will twist out
Put the upper in your Armorer's block (with insert)
Put it in your vice
Use your barrel wrench to unscrew the barrel nut (this can be hard)
Pull barrel off
Install is the reverse; I would go into more detail but there are countless internet write ups that are far more detailed than I could do and with pics (I am lazy this Sunday).

I warn you though, lining up the barrel nut through the delta ring assembly to the bolt key is ... interesting. One barrel popped off no problem, while the other...well, took all of my weight to get it to budge. How tight they are really varies.

Now here is something critical, unless it is a brand new bolt or you want to check head space-- KEEP THE BOLT TOGETHER WITH THE BARREL IT CAME FROM!!!

Almost forgot--I have had an A2 rear site aperture for a long time to replace the A1's. Even the large peep of the A1 is simply too small for my tastes. I did that at the same time. I also swapped the front site posts. The pencil barrel (designed for an A2) needs a slightly higher post. I got mine from Bushmaster.

So, the result? A much lighter rifle even with all my kitchen accessories (flashlight, EOTech, EMOD stock with batteries, etc) and another heavy barrel carbine A1 1/2 that is now more manageable. And a happy wife.....I see a scope for my 6.8 in the near future.

Happy Memorial Day!

I have an AR15 in 6.8SPC that I put together a while back. I can't remember if it is on the blog or my Flickr site. It is a Mega upper/lower with a KoTonics 1:11 SPC II barrel. But it is a flat top with flip up sights.

I have been thinking that since it was built as a deer hunting rig that a primary optic would be nice. Since red dot/holo's increase with magnification (which I want) I should get an actual scope.

I am not a big fan of variables, but in the case of an AR it would be nice to have something with near zero magnification in case you wanted to use it for defense, but also be able to crank up the magnification for hunting. Something like 1.5 - 4x.

The Leupold Mark AR seems to fit that bill. I have long been a fan and regret selling my MK4. (I needed the cash). This particular scope has the multicoat4 lens and Leupold ruggedness/waterproofing.

Here is the link to the Leupold site: Leupold MK AR
What do you think?

Glock does not offer an NRA Instructor Discount, but if you join the Glock Shooting Sports Foundation (GSSF) you are able to buy (1) pistol per year at wholesale pricing.

The catch is that you must have been a member for over a year, or you must join for at least two years. Details are on the GSSF website. Pricing form is below:

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GSSF_Pistol_Purchase_Program_Information

I hesitate to recommend loads because if a person's favorite load isn't listed people tend to get fanatical. But, I get asked frequently, so I am making a brief list of what I have used. I don't purport to list the "best" (whatever that means) or the one with the most "stopping power" (whatever that means) but these work and shoot straight -- at least out my pistols.

No gel tests, no power formulas, no statistics, no cadavers, no actual shootings. For that, I leave you to Google and the reams of internet info you will find.

However, if you are interested in what school of thought I follow, interested in ballistics, or just have a lot of time -- I recommend searching on the following: Dr. Martin Fackler, Doc Roberts aka DocGKR, FirearmsTactical.com and FBI HWFE (handgun wounding factors effectiveness). That should keep you busy for a while :)

A lot of my choice simply has to do with price and availability. I am not going to pay $50 for a box of 20 rounds that I can only find once a year.

22LR - CCI Stinger (faster the better in my semiautos)

22WMR - amazingly have never owned one!

25ACP - Hornady XTP (feed well and available). Not much you can do with 25ACP.

32ACP - Winchester Silvertip (feed well and available)

380ACP - Hornady Critical Defense - I am not sure any one load is better than another but I want more consistent than FMJ and Hornady is always accurate and rated properly.

9mm - Winchester RangerT 147gr. My second choice would be Speer Gold Dot 124gr +P (less recoil than Win 127gr +P+ and more available)

357Sig - I don't own one, but any 125gr loading or even the Hornady 147gr

38SPL - Mine are snub-nose so Speer Gold Dot 135gr +P

357mag - Federal Hydrashok 158gr, have had that forever. Previously, for camping I liked the Speer 170gr Gold Dot soft point. These shoot straight for me.

40S&W - Speer Gold Dot 180gr, but recently got some Federal 180gr HST to try, the Golden Saber 180gr are nice but hard to find in bonded. Hornady 180gr TAP is accurate in my HiPower.

10mm - Hornady XTP 180gr (except for camping, which I just got some SwampFox 200gr). Super accurate and a lot more manageable and consistent (IMO) than Winchester SilverTip.

41AE - Used to have Uzi/Samson Ammo. Bonus points if you know what that is :)

41mag - don't own one, but it is an awesome round

44SPL - don't have a load...

44Mag - not sure why (I don't remember picking it) but I have some Federal HydraShok. Used to have some Garrett 300gr for elk.

45GAP - don't own one but it would be Speer Gold Dot (didn't they design the round?) Look at the ballistics for this round out of a 3" pretty impressive.

45ACP - Hornady XTP 230gr +P -- shoots almost as straight as a 10mm! LOL

There you go, take it for what it is worth. But, I would pick a load you can consistently get in your area and shoots accurately in YOUR hand and gun(s). There are also a lot of good loads, best is really going to depend on a lot of factors you can't predict, so don't sweat it. I wouldn't pay double for a box of Win RangerT 127gr +P+ if Speer Gold Dot 124gr +P is available. Although I do prefer 147gr...I think I still have a box of Corbon 147gr +P around here. Federal HST 147gr +P would be comparable (P9HST4 I think).

Don't get mad if I didn't mention your favorite load. It probably just means I haven't a chance to shoot it--for example until recently HST was hard to get, and Golden Sabre Bonded still is. I would like to try some of the CorBon with Barnes non-lead bullets (XPB?) but they are little rich for me.

So, someone asked for clarification on my statement on why I don't think that GLOCK is the best platform for the 10mm (or 45 Super).

I think that the GLOCK is a fantastic platform in general. They do an amazing job of balancing spring weight with slide mass to function with every standard factory load.

The problem is when you vary from that. Well, increase the loadings such as with full power 10mm and 45 Super. Full power loads would be from companies like SwampFox, Buffalo Bore, DoubleTap, etc.

There is really no way to absorb the increased recoil (for simplicity's sake) other than put in a heavier recoil spring. The 1911 for example can have a heavier recoil spring, but also have a heavier hammer spring (like FN/Browning did on the Hipower when upgrading the High Power for 40) and a flattened firing pin spring increasing lock time from a faster operating cycle.

I first ran into this when Ace Hindman helped me put together my first 45 Super back in the early 90's (Springfield 1911). When I got my second 45ACP it was a Glock 21. He would not recommend shooting 45 Super out of my Glock 21 (even with a heavier spring) unless I also had it MagnaPorted to slow the slide down.

Some folks complain about the lack of chamber support on GLOCK and over the years they have quietly increased head space support. I personally don't think it is a problem -- most 1911's DON'T have supported chamber. Neither my Colt Delta Elite and Dan Wesson Commander Bobtail (CBOB) have supported chambers. Although in the last year of the CBOB, DW did add it. Perhaps noteworthy, Kimber 10mm's do.

I have not had any problems with either with fullpower ammo (DoubleTap and my own handloads). But, I think that NOT having a supported chamber exacerbates any lock time issues, especially if the pistol fires out of battery (not saying the GLOCK does).

SwampFox has had some issues with the GLOCKs and their full power loadings and now has a warning against using it in firearms without a fully supported chamber. This implies that a replacement barrel with fully supported chamber (Lone Wolf Dist, KKM, Bar-Sto, Storm Lake, etc) should be OK.

So, IMO, the Glock is not the best platform for 10mm or 45 Super. Now, don't get me wrong, if you are not looking for the top end of handgun ammunition power they are pretty darn close.

This is a great resource!

LINK to Steve's Pages

So, does a C&S hammer and sear lever replacement require modification of your HP?

From Cylinder & Slide:
"It is very wise in the BHP, that if you are going to change the hammer that you always change the sear,this way you will have a match set made of the very best materials,and will last a life time.

What you are also talking about is the improved sear lever. This has to have a different hole drilled in the slide to make it work like it should. This new sear lever changes the geometry of the angle, and will result in a better trigger pull weight. This hole has to be made on a milling machine as it has to be in the right place."

NRA to Call for Holder's Resignation Over 'Project Gunrunner' Allegations, http://fxn.ws/j1FeYN - Sent via the FOX News Android App. Check out the FOX News Android application. To learn more and download the app, go to http://www.foxnews.com/android

I am tired of this round being misrepresented on forums. It is rated @ 1240fps from a 4" barrel (bbl is not on the website but it is on the spec sheet).

Regarding pressure, I asked Winchester Law Enforcement:

I noticed that RA9TA lists an operating pressure of approximately 40,000
CUP. Since in that range it is not immediately convertible, do you have
an approximate PSI rating?"

Winchester (name removed) replied:
"I have attached an updated spec sheet on this product. It shows 42,000
CUP. Roughly translated into PSI it would be 40,000 P.S.I. A regular
9mm has a MAP (Maximum Average Pressure) of 35,000 psi and a +P 9mm
would be 38,500 psi.

Sincerely,
(name removed)
Winchester Ammunition

Here is the spec sheet: RA9TA

This is cool....click on primary weapon. Somebody still uses 10mm :)

FBI SWAT GRAPHIC